If you want to skip directly to the other parts, then just hit
Part I or
Part III or
Part IV.
Urandangi
I will start here with Urandangi even if it still lies in Queensland but I felt that it belongs to the typical Northern Territory.
Ok, now we are in Urandangi, a small settlement in the middle of nowhere, which has been founded 1885 with only one general store to supply the surrounding farms. It became some kind of a boom town around 1930 with two general stores, two hotels, one saloon, police station and school beside some living quarters. Today there is just one pub left (also serves as a hotel with some cabins to stay overnight), the
which also serves as a gathering place for the Aborigines living in the houses scattered around. The only white people we saw were the pub's proprietor couple. Nobody else seemed to work, but just having a "good time" consuming whatever the pub had to offer: chips and Coca Cola for the old lady, soft drinks for the young girls, but mostly beer for the rest, whether XXXX or VB cans, not just one by one but also carried away by the case. There actually was no need for all the beer advertisements.
My statements above and the comments below do not sound politically correct, but that was what I actually saw and that for the first time which made me feel very sad. And this was not just because of this forsaken place but there was more to be seen (and heard and read about), whether in other indigenous communities or in the midst of the nicest Australian towns.
Despite the fact that many are trying to sweep the issue of the way of life of the Aborigines under the carpet, there are few voices who bring it up. I will try to cover this subject, as I encounter it, throughout my travel report.
The real issue cannot be explained easily, though I will try it in a separate link later on.
Click the small picture to get it enlarged
| Is that the Dangi Pub?
|
| Supposed to be the Urandangi Pub
|
| Or better Uranbloodydangi?
|
| The Dangi Pub - Home of the VB girl
|
| The Dangi with beer ads all around
|
| When will he become a VB man?
|
| Will she become an XXXX Lager girl?
|
| Will she always stick to soft drinks?
|
| No seat at the bar is available anymore
|
| but on the veranda is enough space to relax
|
We didn't stay long. Petra was somehow afraid of the Aborigines. After filling up our hydration system with a soft drink and our tank with diesel (while being charged $2.00 per liter instead of $1.75 as displayed, or the liter was only 900ml, the 10% sniffed away), we left for Tobermorey, expecting to be lucky to be able to stay there overnight (the proprietor lady was trying to call Tobermorey Homestead for us, but in vain) and not having to come back to sleep in the Urandangi "Hotel".
Tobermorey to Alice Springs
After 97km, while finally crossing the border to the Northern Territory, we reached Tobermorey on a dirt unsealed road.
| Finally reaching the Northern Territory
|
| And soon after the Tobermory Homestead
|
And we were lucky, because in a couple of days
Tobermorey Homestead
Plenty Highway
Northern Territory
Tel.:07 4748 4996
|
would have closed down during the wet season commencing October. Also lucky that we did not get any flat tyre, which may have happened if taken the Donohue Highway, though we could get it fixed in Tobermorey, which also had a tyre shop.
We rang the bell at the reception cabin and soon a lady, looking like Miss Marple, turned up, and showed us the only two cabins, which also happened to be vacant.
It was better than expected, even if the cabins for $75 each were just containers (but with bathroom and aircon) and the only meal we could get in the small shop of Miss Marple were little frozen pizzas to be warmed up in our microwave in the cabin.
Tobermorey was actually a farm with supposedly 20,000 cattle but the area was so huge we did not see any of them. Next morning we hit the road again, this time on the famous Plenty Highway.
| The homestead has only two cabins
|
| We were happy to get on the Plenty Highway
|
The Regional Manager of Europcar in Cairns approved "this route BUT STRONGLY RECOMMEND AGAINST it. It must be made absolutely clear to the clients they are venturing into an extremely remote part of the Australian outback and, if anything were to happen to their vehicle (accident or breakdown) they may be stranded for many days until we can get help to them".
The track was better than expected, or we were just lucky that we did not get stuck in any deep bull dust holes filled up and leveled by the wind with fine dust, not to be easily seen as such.
| But mile after mile all the same landscape
|
| The only highlight was this termite mound
|
After 209km on the never changing road and landscape (the Outback in the Northers Territory is also called Never-Never), except for the 5m high termite mound at km 159 (from Tobermorey), we reached Jervois Homestead, which had a campground (with shower and toilet) and very basic accommodation: cabins with no bathroom and only mattresses (no bed sheets) for $30.
We didn't plan to stay here, but it is nice to know in case we did get stuck and couldn't go any farther. A small kiosk only provided some soft drinks and potato chips, so we rather were content with our provision we carried with us. The only thing we did was filling up our tank again.
Next stopover after another 203km on the Plenty was at the Gemtree Caravan Park, which also provided basic cabins for $70 (though, again, no bathroom attached), drinks, sandwiches, chips and ice cream. Also here we did not want to stay overnight, even if it would have been worthwhile to go on one of the fossicking tours to some gemfields, like the Mud Tank zircon field 10km or garnet deposits 30km away.
| Jervois Homestead
|
| Gemtree Caravan Park
|
Alice Springs
On Saturday, September 29th, we finally arrived after 9 days and 3177km (from Cairns) in Alice Springs. Some tour operators even make it in 3 days.
We checked several backpackers and motels and finally decided for the luxurious
Voyages Alice Spring Resort
34 Stott Terrace
Alice Springs NT 0871
Tel.: 61 8 8951 4545
www.voyages.com.au
|
The rooms were nice and worth the money for $119. The pool was ok, too.
Best place for dinner (and not just for that, because it also was a real Aussie pub and grill) was the
Bojangles
80 Todd Street
Alice Springs
www.bossaloon.com.au
|
The Aussie Grill meal with camel, crocodile, kangaroo, buffalo steak for $19 on the menu was really something special, though the camel steak was a little bit tough. The ordering procedure is worth mentioning: select and pay at the ordering counter where you get an electronic chip, which starts flashing as soon as your dish is ready to be picked up. You can also pick up your drink from the bar (my favorite XXXX tap beer for $4.70), sit down and intermingle with the folks on long wooden tables. If you are not there then you can watch what's going on in the pub through four internet cameras via the URL as shown above.
| In the Bojangles Saloon
|
| The camel seemed to be tough?
|
Next day was Sunday and our relaxing day in town (most shops are closed) and at the swimming pool, after the very good and big buffet breakfast for $17 at the
Red Ochre Grill
Todd Mall
Alice Springs
|
Uli did never come back to this place for breakfast buffet and also didn't want to, because he blamed it for his developing diarrhea soon after, lasting all the way through Ululu (Aborigines curse?).
Uluru and Kata Tjuta
Next day, Monday, October 1st, we finally started on our Red Centre Tour, first to Uluru, the new Aboriginal name for Ayers Rock. After a boring drive of 200km on the Stuart Highway down south, we turned onto the Lasseter Highway, not less boring, at the Erlunda Roadhouse, who provided some accommodation but we only filled up our tank.
After another 160km we stopped over at the Curtain Springs Station, where we made reservation and paid for tomorrow's night on our way back from Uluru and then further on to Kings Canyon.
From here we could see the Mount Conner, 26km south of the highway. Many people already think that this is the Ayers Rock. Tours to Mount Connor are conducted by the Curtain Spring Station.
But we continued on the highway for another 84km to Yulura, the accommodation village close to the Uluru and Kata Tjuta National Park, where Petra has made reservation (from Alice Springs) for an apartment (bedroom, kitchen, balcony, living room with sleeping couch) at the Emu Walk Apartments as part of the
Desert Garden Hotel
Yulura
Northern Territory
Tel.:8957 7605
|
for a special discounted price of $299. The official standard price (cheapest) for a double room would have been $448 (it was still high season). So it was a good deal. The cheapest would have been in a 20 bed dorm for $33 per person in the Outback Pioneer Lodge. All the accommodation belongs to one company, the Voyages Hotels and Resorts (a real monopoly).
| That is not Ayers Rock, but Mt Conner
|
| This is the real Ayers Rock, or Ululu
|
As soon as we settled down in our apartment, we booked a helicopter flight for $240 each for the once in a life time 35 minutes sunset flight. That small chopper could only carry 3 passengers, 2 of the more heavy ones on the rear seats, to the dismay of Uli, who wanted to shoot the better photos from the front seat.
| Our helicopter and pilot
|
| All systems go?
|
First we flew over the Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), which consists of 36 domed rocks with some gorges and valleys in between. The tallest rock is even 200m higher than the Uluru.
| Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
|
| from the air
|
| Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
|
| and in the evening sun
|
Uluru, however, was still most impressive for me than Kata Tjuta, especially with the changing colors due to the different angles of the sun illuminating it (see also the photo beside Mt Connor above).
| Oluru from the air
|
| and in the evening sun
|
The view from above with the rock formation and the landscape in between was magnificent while the sun set closer to the horizon until finally disappeared.
| Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) after sunset
|
| Relaxed after a save landing
|
After our fantastic flight we had dinner at the Outback Pioneer Barbecue and Bar, or better: I had the real dinner with a special dining experience: buying my Porterhouse steak (or anything like kangaroo or baramundi, for example), at the meat counter and grill it myself on one of the many barbecues and then I could take as much as I wanted from the soup, veggie, cake and salad bar, all for $25.
Petra and Uli seemed to be not that hungry and served themselves freely just from the bread buffet, though later on they are having some snacks from the hamburger counter. Mostly young folks (and mostly staying in dorm beds of the Lodge) seemed to be having a party at this fantastic place with live music. Though we did not stay that long as the youth and jumped on the free shuttle bus to get back to our apartment.
| Outback Pioneer Bar with didgeridoo player
|
| Back in our apartment
|
Next day we checked out of our Desert Garden Hotel and went on our own Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) tour by our car. First we had to pay $25 per person for the entry permit into the National Park (valid 3 days). And there it is, the rock like being dropped on the plain landscape. Imagine: only one seventh stuck out of it, like an iceberg. It even looks more impressive from the ground instead of from the air.
| Back on the road
|
| to Uluru (Ayers Rock)
|
| With changing colors
|
| from different sides
|
We skipped the Cultural Center for now and drove directly to the main parking lot of Uluru, the Mala car park, in front of the trail leading up to the top. Despite the fact that it was closed for now because of the heat getting close to 36 degrees centigrade, we would not have done it because the monolith is sacred to the Aborigines (this is no excuse).
| Climb fortunately closed
|
| so let's try to go around
|
We, Uli and myself only (Petra needed some rest on the bench), just walked on one of the trails leading around along the rock, but didn't continue all the way but came back after about one km. The complete walk all around the base would have been 9.4km and could be made in 3 hours.
| This doesn't look smooth
|
| Looks like a wave tube
|
The Uluru looked pretty smooth from far away, but a close-up look reveals a lot of irregularities. The red color of Uluru and Kata Tjuta and all around in the Red Center is actually rust, or iron oxide. Imagine if Uluru will some day collapse and become flat, because all the iron inside will all get rusty and blown away.
| The Rock with cave
|
| The Rock with crevice
|
| The Rock with painting
|
| The Rock with abyss
|
| The Rock with holes
|
| The Rock with hood
|
| The Rock with cracks
|
| The Rock with pool
|
From the Mala car park we drove to another car park to make the 1km Kuniya walk to the Mutitjulu Waterhole, while passing many rock paintings. They are proof that Uluru has been a sacred place for at least 10,000 years.
| An old rock painting
|
| A new Aboriginal painting
|
Many of the old designs are passed on from generation to generation and are still used and revived in modern paintings. Some of them are displayed in the Cultural Center, which is very interesting and a good place to get all kinds of information beside some rest and lunch as we did after we came back from our Uluru experience.
| Another colorful painting
|
| And this is the Uluru Cultural Center
|
From the Cultural Center we drove 45km to get to Kata Tjuta, first to the Karu Lookout. We did not make the famous 7.4km Valley of the Winds Walk, because there was not much time left on that day to make the loop in 3 hours.
| Back to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
|
| but not for a climb, it's forbidden
|
| We also always stayed on the track
|
| This one going into the Walpa Gorge
|
Then we went to a parking lot with a shorter walk to the Walpa Gorge, which I did (Petra and Uli were too exhausted already in the late afternoon).
| The gorge is getting narrower
|
| until the end of the trail
|
That was also the end of our Ayers and Olga visit. Same afternoon we hit the Lasseter Highway going back 138km via Yulara to
our pre-paid accommodation in
Curtin Springs Station
NT 0872
Tel.: 08 8956 2906
Email:curtinas@ozemail.com.au
|
This is a good place to stay overnight instead of the outrageous prices in Yulara, 80km away, though not as comfortable. Double budget room was more a cell with no attached bathroom but cost only $60 (compared to Yulara standard). The people were friendly, the beer and the food was reasonable.
Met a lady with a motorbike with Heidelberg registration. Talked to her in the morning at breakfast. She (working for SAP, by the way) was biking around the world with flights in between (8,000 Euro fare for her and her bike). Next destination New Zealand, then Chile, etc. Admirable.
| Our overnight stay in Curtin Springs
|
| Then skipped the Kings Creek Station
|
Kings Canyon
Next day we drove 219km from Curtain Springs to the Kings Canyon Resort via Lasseter Highway and then the turn onto the Luritja Road (all sealed). Passed the Kings Creek Station on our way, took a look and decided not to stay in one of the heated-up tents. Rather settled down in the better
Kings Canyon Resort
Luritja Road
Tel.: 1800 089 622
www.kingscanyonresort.com.au
|
We could have had two double rooms in the hotel complex for $348 each. So we rather took one four bed room cabin (no attached bathroom though) and paid $156.
| The road to the Kings Canyon Resort
|
| Nice bird in front of our cabin
|
I decided that I must make the Kings Canyon Rim Walk (Uli and Petra had this done years ago, so they rather relaxed at the swimming pool). I drove the 10km alone to the Kings Canyon parking lot and and off I walked.
While two guys were trying to overtake me, they asked me to join them what I happily accepted. They were Toni from England with his Australian guide Terry. The first part of the walk was the only little bit strenuous one: we had to climb to the rim. From then on we mostly stayed up there.
| Happy that I met Terry and Tony in the Kings Canyon
|
| Awarded already with the first nice view after the climb
|
The Kings Canyon is part of the Watarrka National Park. The Luritja Aborigines have lived here already for 20 000 years and there are many sacred sites. Many of the weathered sandstone outcrops are seen by the Aborigenes as all kinds of sacred figures of some dreamings (all sacred places have to do with Aboriginal's "dreamings" or beliefs).
| Though I would have not been afraid alone
|
| Nobody could help if falling down anyway
|
Even if a small creek is running along the floor of the canyon, it was not created or cut out by any river like the Gran Canyon by the Colorado River, but just cracked apart by seismic activities, as Terry told us, leaving those impressing 100m high walls on both sides.
| Just don't step to close to the cliff's edge
|
| The view is magnificient even from a distance
|
To get closer to the gorge and to have a better look at the cliffs we had to make a 600m detour following the signs to the Cotteril's Lookout.
| Most fantastic sight by getting closer
|
| and really awesome from another angle
|
| The ornaments on the wall looked like hieroglyphs
|
| Another fantastic view from the end of the canyon
|
We also looked down into the Garden of Eden with the rock pool where we saw some people already taking some rest. Terry assured us that we will do the same when we get back to the loop trail. We weren't too fond of it at first going down and up again but it was easy: wooden staircases almost all the way and we were awarded with a nice stay too at the pool, though did not swim in it.
| A beautiful look down into the rock pool
|
| with a closer look we see some people relaxing
|
| Watch out while jumping over crevices
|
| and while looking down to the rock pool
|
My watch thermometer already showed 40 degrees centigrade in the shadow. So covering the head and drinking a lot of water is a must. One guidebook even suggested 1 liter every hour (the Rim Walk was an estimated three to four hours). I drank a lot before I started (like a camel) and had 1 liter with me. Terry, the experienced guide carried only half a liter and even did not finish it.
Anyway, dehydration can struck easily. So this happened to a lady whose companion had already called the emergency helicopter, just trying now to find a save landing site. I was told that this will cost the lady at least $3,000.
| In case of an emergency
|
| you can call the rescue chopper
|
| And the doctor comes flying (not from the Flying Doctors)
|
| to give first aid or provide transport to a hospital
|
We continued our walk knowing that the lady is being taken care of. We took some daring steps to the cliff's edge to have a look now to the other side of the canyon, where we walked along before.
| The other side where we also stepped close to the cliff
|
| We also were careful not to step on the beautiful liz
|
Finally we came to the end of our walk around and then down the trail back to the parking lot. We made the loop in three hours. Terry had some ice cold refreshments ready. We talked and reminisced about our shared experience. For me, the walk around the canyon was one of the highlights of my Australia trip.
| A last glimpse at the cliffs
|
| of the fantastic Kings Canyon
|
Back in the Kings Canyon Resort, the first thing was to cool off in the swimming pool. After that I felt refreshed and fit again to join the evening "party" in the George Gill Bar & Outback restaurant, while having barbecue dinner. Also met Toni again for a small talk.
| Live music in the Kings Canyon Resort
|
| and Australian's party life in the restaurant
|
Next morning we checked out at the Kings Canyon Resort after having breakfast in the Carmichael's restaurant of the 5 star hotel complex. I served myself from the cold buffet for $12 (in contrary to the warm buffet with bacon, eggs, etc.). Uli and Petra had something from the menu.
Then we drove altogether now to the Kings Canyon just to make the easy Kings Creek Walk through the valley 1.3km to the end of the trail. From here we had a nice but not so impressive view to the cliffs from below.
| Last walk down in the Kings Canyon valley
|
| then hitting the dirt Mereenie Loop Road
|
On the Mereenie Loop to Hermannsburg
It took some persuasion to follow my suggestion to take the Mereenie Loop Road to get back to Alice Springs (also having Hermannsburg on our way in my mind). Petra meant that going back via the Stuart Highway was shorter and faster. She also probably had enough from dirt roads and going through Aboriginal land.
Later I calculated from the map that it would have been 475km on a sealed road instead of 249km on a half dirt/half sealed road. An alternative route would have been the Ernest Giles Road (also dirt road, though) north of the Lasseter Highway and hitting the Stuart Highway, but still about 330km to Alice Springs.
To get on the Mereenie Loop we needed a permit for $2.20, which we acquired at the reception of the Kings Canyon Resort. Nobody checked this permit and we also saw no Aborigine until we reached Hermannsburg after 160km without any problems (and no flat tyre either). It is lying in Aboriginal land and is also inhabited by the Arrernte people. Only the old mission or "Historic Hermannsburg" seemed to be still administered by non Aborigines, because we saw they were the only one working inside.
| The Hermanns-burg mission
|
| The old church
|
The entrance fee was only $5 which included tea or coffee. I took my tea and tried their famous strudel in the Kata-Anga Tea Room. Every room was still kept as in the old days. It was very interesting to wander through this old place and study the old photos and documents hanging at the walls.
| Inside the mission building
|
| One of the rooms
|
Hermannsburg was founded by two German pastors around 1878 to be subsequently abandoned of various reasons in 1891. But in 1894 the pastor Carl Strehlow made this place a well working mission with German thoroughness but also with chauvinism by trying to eradicate their Aboriginal beliefs (which missionary did not?). Though he studied their customs and their language, which eventually was continued by his son professor TGH (Ted) Strehlow.
| Pastor Strehlow and his wife
|
| Aborigines at that time
|
The mission provided work for the men, taught women sewing and knitting, and sent the children to school. Seemed to be an intact world, during the good old time.
| Aboriginal women
|
| Aboriginal children
|
However in 1982 the missionary work was given up and Hermannsburg was given back to the Arrernte people under the Aboriginal Land Rights Act. The way Hermannsburg town itself looked today, made me sad again. What has gone wrong, cannot be answered easily, if at all (though will try in a separate report).
| That was not the car of Pastor Strehlow
|
| But now every Aborigine has his own scrap car
|
Hermannsburg was also the home of the late Aboriginal painter Albert Namatjira (I visited his grave in Alice Springs). His and of other artists paintings (probably replicated) can be bought at the store in the mission. As a matter of fact, in the old days the Hermannsburg school with almost 40 painters were famous all over Australia. And now?
| Aboriginal Art painting with various motifs
|
| Especially about flora and fauna
|
After this stopover and nice break from the dirt driving routine we now hit a sealed road again and soon arrived in Alice Springs, where we stayed again at the Voyages Alice Spring Resort, but this time for $130 the double room (they are changing the rates like on the stock exchange).
| Back on the sealed road again
|
| Watch out for the horses
|
Back in Alice Springs
Speaking of horses. Oh yes, the horses. Petra could not overcome the fact that she was neither able to stay on a farm nor ride a horse (only camel riding would have been available). Still in the Kings Canyon resort she and Uli were frantically trying to find a farm in the internet for the last couple of days of their stay. They only find the Erlunda Roadhouse close by which we have passed on our way to Uluru and it did not look like a farm but a cheap overnight stay. We also called up a farm stay recommended by the author of the Lonely Planet Guide, the "exclusive and very privat" Bond Springs Outback Retreat, but it was fully booked.
Back in Alice Springs they wanted to fly to Sydney two days earlier now and I called up Quantas for them. Unfortunately there was no way to change the flight because no seats were available for their cheap contingent tickets.
Uli had the second thought now (but to late now), that it would have been better to start in Alice Springs and finish in Cairns with so much more possibilities to do there. I disagreed (even if I had, during the initial planning period, suggested going from Darwin to Cairns).
I was always telling them that there are more things to do in Alice Springs, like visiting the Ghan Rail Museum and the Road Transport Hall of Fame (not to mention the surrounding West and East MacDonnel Range National Parks). But he wanted to see the Industrial Area of Alice Springs instead. Much ado about nothing. The one place which looked like a fancy car or bike parts outlet from the outside turned out a cheap clothes sale store.
Then finally I was able to convince Uli while announcing that he would be happily surprised. And he was happy and really lived up (as a Mercedes Truck Sales Manager was supposed to be) when he saw not the old Ghan but all the old and new trucks. And I was happy to see him happy and some old Ford vehicles.
| The Ghan Rail museum was not so interesting
|
| But the Government Road Train of 1932 was Uli's delight
|
| What a beautiful truck
|
| This seems to be very expensive
|
| A Ford for 192 Pound and 10 Shillings was very cheap
|
| And Ford's good quality lasts a long time
|
On the road we passed along a horse race track with a sign announcing a horse race next Saturday but did not mention the time. While I strolled alone to town after we came back from the museums, I also inquired at the Tourist Office and I could tell them later that the race will probably start at 10 a.m. (though, it really started a couple of hours later). I finished the day without Petra and Uli at Bo's place intermingling with some folks at one of the long wooden tables.
| Back in the Todds Mall strolling around
|
| and later at Bo's for dinner and some drinks
|
Next day, Petra and Uli went to the horse race and I did the sight-seeing tour recommended by the Lonely Planet, all by foot, while encountering the following signs at some places. At others, like in the middle of the park beside the Todd Mall, I saw Aborigines sitting in the grass, some have paintings for sale displayed, others just sit or lie around. In Darwin, I have read, these grassy people, as they are called, are not allowed anymore in the city to sit on communal grass or lawns.
| Better get drunk before you get here
|
| or get a permit for drinking with your barbecue
|
| No off-limit for grassy people yet
|
| some trying to sell some paintings
|
Some other signs caught my eye: The distances of some cities far away. Then later on I passed at the headquarter of the Royal Flying Doctors Service.
| It's a long way to Tipperary, it's a long way to Berlin
|
| The Royal Flying Doctor Service came a long way too
|
My next destination was the Alice Springs Cultural Precinct, which shows an old Flying Doctor Service plane in the Aviation Museum. The remnants of the crash of the Kookaburra plane in 1929 (the two pilots perished) and discovered in 1978 is shown in a separate pavilion, while the snakes and much more are shown in the Natural History Museum and paintings in the Aboriginal Arts and Culture Building.
| Flying to far places in the Outback to help
|
| For this pilot every help came too late
|
| All the snakes I missed while travelling through the Outback
|
| Strange worms I did not see either, as painted by an Aborigine
|
Before I went back to the city I had to climb the Anzac Hill to have a wonderful view over the city. Then back down I encountered a nice wall painting at the backside of a shopping center, which depicted interestingly the life during the time of the pioneers.
| This is the modern city of Alice from Anzac Hill
|
| This is a non-Aboriginal wall painting in Alice Spring
|
On our last day in Alice Springs, Sunday, October 7th, I suggested to visit the Bond Springs Outback Resort, just to find out what this place is all about, where Petra wanted to stay but was already fully booked, when I called (Petra: why go there if we could not stay there).
At first we missed the track because we saw no turn-off sign. I remembered from a brochure that it was just before the railway crossing, so we went back and found a small dirt track we took. But then what a disappointment: At first nobody seemed to be there. Then we found a "cowboy", or stockman, who then was looking for the responsible lady. She told us that there is no way to see the farm except to have booked a morning tour (8 a.m. to 12 a.m.) for $95 from a Tour Operator. Also, even with the tour, there may be no chance to see any cattle (supposedly 3000 Herefords), because they are all over the place but not at the waterhole (the only place to go).
So Petra was now convinced that this would not be the place she wanted to stay (thanks God they were fully booked). If you want to know more about this then check their internet site at www.outbackretreat.com.au.
In the afternoon we visited the Desert Park after I kindly asked Uli and Petra to go there together. They reluctantly agreed and they were even more appalled when they saw that the entrance fee was $20. I was even better off to pay only $16 as being a senior. I told them again that they will be happily surprised again. And they really were, not to mention myself. Uli even meant that we should have visited it in the first place, before we went into the Outback (but then still the other way around).
| This does not look like a Desert
|
| It's hot, so kangaroos rather lie in the shadow
|
The Desert Park is located 6km west of town and contains the eco system of Central Australia with its all kinds of landscapes from woodland to desert including their specific flora and fauna. At the entrance we were supplied with a free audio guide (also in several languages), so the explanations could be easily followed by just typing in the number displayed at each sight. Also, a guide or ranger gave a demonstration of how the Aborigines survived in the outback and how the boomerang and spear were used for hunting.
| Landscape changes from green pastures
|
| to real Red Center Outback
|
The following birds were not freely flying around but were all contained in aviaries. Don't ask all the names. Maybe looking it up all the birds literature some day.
| Birds
|
| Birds
|
| Birds
|
| Birds
|
| Birds
|
| Birds
|
Most interesting was the nocturnal house which has some real living species contained behind glas not to be seen easily in the wild, though many guidebooks show pictures of it like you encounter them everywhere. I did not necessarily want to see a snake on our own trip through the Outback but always a Thorny Devil.
| Beware of the snake, no danger behind glass
|
| Nobody has to be afraid of the Thorny Devil
|
After the park visit we relaxed and had a snack at the restaurant before heading back to town and our resort.
Next morning Petra and Uli drove to the airport to bring back the car and to embark on their flight to Sydney for another two nights before flying back to Germany.
I had to check-out at the hotel at 10 a.m. and stayed at the swimming pool until 3 p.m. and then went to the railway station by taxi ($9) and left Alice Springs
at 6 p.m. with the Ghan for Katherine.
Ok, that was the second part of our trip to Australia. For the other parts just click on
Part I or
Part III or
Part IV.
As it was said before and will be said again: There could have been seen and done a lot more. Also I could have written more. If you want to know more all about the places I have visited, then just look up any of the many guidebooks or in the internet.
|